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For centuries travellers have been lured by the grandeur and massiveness
of the Karakoram and Hindukush. The Chinese were the earliest known
travellers on the famous Silk Route which passed through these magnificent
ranges and recorded their impressions of dark mountains, rope bridges and
mighty glaciers. Fattien crossed the Karakoram through Mintika Pass (4710 m)
in 390 AD on his way from Sinkiang to the South Asian Sub-continent. Hinen
Tsang trekked his way through the Karakoram to this region in 603 AD. Marco
Polo’s journey from Venice to the court of Kublai Khan in 13th century left
its imprints here including the Marco Polo sheep. Ibne Batuta of Tangiers
travelled here in the 14th century. Later many European notables visited
Karakoram for adventure, exploration, scientific studies and mountain
climbing in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century.
In the early nineteenth century explorers like Mr J Henderson and Mr G T
Vinge travelled to Skardu in 1834 and 1836. Serious mountaineering in
Karakoram began in 1892 when Martin Conway, while carrying out survey of the
upper Indus, attempted to climb peaks in the area including Rakaposhi. He
returned to the region in 1902 when he tried to climb K-2. In 1909 the great
Duke of Abruzzi from Italy brought his large expedition to climb and survey
the upper Boltoro region. Thus began a series of exploratory and
mountaineering expeditions to the Karakoram. Till 1947, a number of European
mountaineers and explorers including British, Italian and American had
visited the region. After independence in 1947, number of the expeditions to
the area increased. In 1953 an American expedition made an unsuccessful
attempt on K-2, whereas in 1954 an Italian expedition led by Prof Ardito
Desio successfully made the first ascent of the savage mountain - K-2. Mr
Lino Lecedelli and Archille Compagnoni became the first men to reach K-2
summit, climbing through the Abruzzi ridge. Since opening up of the area for
general mountaineering and trekking in 1974, a large number of expeditions
visit Karakoram each year. A Pak-Japanese expedition successfully put the
first Japanese mountaineer along with first Pakistani mountaineer Mr Ashraf
Aman on the K-2 summit in 1977. K-2 has since been climbed by a large number
of climbers from all its sides and slopes. Mr Nazir Sabir, while in the
company of another Pak-Japanese expedition in 1981, made the first ascent of
the most difficult West ridge of K-2. Mr Rajab Shah and Mr Meherban Shah
became the first Pakistani pair to stand on summit of K-2 in 1995. Till date
K-2 has been climbed by large number of mountaineers from different
countries, including internationally renowned and eminent mountaineers like
Reinhold Messener and others. On the average Karakoram receives up to 55
expeditions each year. Other high peaks of Karakoram have since been climbed
by a large number of foreign and Pakistani mountaineers, yet there are
number of other high peaks which still lay unclimbed waiting for those who
dare to challenge them. Hindukush
Locals believes as:
"Very unfriendly range as it is deserted, barren and rugged. Hindu was the
nation of this land which was being called Hindustan (Land of Hindus) before
independence of Pakistan while “Kush” mean killer, meaning thereby that land
which kills people. It was believed that no one had ever come back who went
inside this range".
The Hindukush rises South West of Pamirs. It is considered to extend from
Wakhjir pass at the junction of the Pamirs and Karakoram to Khawak pass
North of Kabul. Its first regions extends from Wakhjir pass separating Hunza
from Wakhan and up to Dorah pass (320 kms in length). Its second region lies
beyond Dorah pass in Afghanistan. The third region which runs for 240 kms
lies in Pakistan and extends into Swat and Kohistan. On the East it is
separated from Karakoram by Indus River. Highest of Hindukush is Tirich Mir
(7708). Other peaks include Istr-o-Nal (7403 m), Saraghar (7349 m), Noshaq
(7492 m), Darban Zom (7219m) and Shingeik Zom. Few glaciers exit in the
range, but of lesser significance.
The area, due to geographic features, had access from Afghanistan and was
first explored by the Europeans in 1830, followed by the British survey
teams. Attempts were also made by British survey teams to scale Tirichmir
and other peaks in the area as early as 1927. Tirichmir was, however,
climbed in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition led by Mr Arne Naess. Since then
it has been climbed by numerous expeditions from different nationalities
including Pakistanis. Other peaks in the area were climbed later in the
sixties and seventies. Although all peaks 7000 m (Above sea level) in the
Hindukush stand climbed yet the area continues to lure climbers and nature
lovers. In recent years other adventure tourism activities like trekking and
jeep safaris have increased in the area.
Prominent treks in the area include Kalash - Chambol Pass (15 days round
trip from Islamabad), trek across Thui Pass from Chitral to Gilgit (25 days
round trip from Islamabad) and Darkut trek from Chitral, Mastuj to Gilgit (3
weeks round trip from Islamabad). Western Himalayas
The Western Himalayas is situated between Kashmir valley in the East to
Indus River in the North and West, and is dominated by Nanga Parbat massif
with highest peak rising at 8125 metres (ASL). The range comprise the
regions of Kashmir, Kaghan, Kohistan, Deosai and Chilas. The range is also
dominated by Deosai plains situated at the height of about 4500 metre (ASL)
which is filled with flowers in the summer months, presenting the most
rewarding scenic view. The monsoons penetrate the area in the summer. Of
late, some winter climbing has also started. Nanga Parbat complex has
numerous routes but the prominent base camps are Rupal (Eastern face),
Raikot / Fairy Meadows face (North Western face), Diamer face (the Western
face) and the long West Mazeno ridge. It was explored by Europeans in later
part of nineteenth century. The Schlagintweet brothers from Germany visited
Nanga Parbat region as early as 1854. A British expedition led by Mr A F
Mummery attempted to find a way up the Southern and Western slopes in 1895.
In 1932 a German cum American expedition attempted to climb Nanga Parbat.
Later it was attempted by German expeditions in 1937 and 1939 with heavy
loss of life and, therefore, is aptly called a German mountain. It was,
however, in 1953 that an Austro German expedition led by Mr Herlingkoffer
succeeded in conquering this killer mountain. Mr Hermann Buhl in an
unprecedented 40 hour solo climb succeeded in reaching the summit. The peak
has since been climbed from all sides by number of climbers including Mr
Reinhold Messener, who has climbed it on more than one occasions. Sher Khan,
Rajab Shah, Mohammed-ullah and Atta ul Haq became the first Pakistanis to
scale Nanga Parbat in 1989. Potohar or Potwar plateau
Potohar or Potwar plateau is situated an area of about 7,000 sq.miles
with an elevation of 1,000-2,000 feet. It is bounded on the east by the
Jhelum, on the west by the Indus, on the north by the Kala Chitta Range and
the Margalla Hills, and on the south by the Salt Range. The gradual northern
slope of the Salt Range makes the southern boundary of the Potwar
ill-defined. The plateau slopes from north-east to south-west and, with the
exception of the south-eastern portion draining to the Jhelum, belongs to
the Soan Basin. It is a typical ‘bad-land’, cut up by deep-set ravines,
known locally as khaderas. Above the broken surface of the Soan Basin rise
the limestone and sandstone hills of Khairi Murat, Kheri Mar and Kala Chitta.
The Salt Range is a feature of great geological interest since it presents a
complete geological sequence from earliest times. The steep southern face,
rising to about, 2,000 feet, also evokes interest. It is an example of a
‘dislocation mountain’. ‘Its orthoclinal outline suggests that these
mountains are the result of a monoclonal uplift combined with vertical
dislocation along their southern border which has depressed the other half
underneath the plains.’
The range begins in the east near the Jhelum in the Jogi Tilla (3,400 feet
above sea level) and Bakralla Ridges, and comprises parallel ranges of low,
flat-topped hills enclosing small intermontane valleys, basin plains, or
plateaus, and a number of saline lakes. Two of the larger lakes are Khabeki
and Kallar Kahar. At Kalabagh the range crosses the Indus and then continues
south-west into Bannu District.
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